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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.